Who is Malcolm Ford? Harrison Ford's musician son turned to drugs after his parents separated when he was a teen
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2023-06-01 22:48
How Burberry evolved from humble raincoat maker to luxury fashion giant
Always one of the most eagerly awaited events at London Fashion Week, the Burberry catwalk show attracts A-list celebrities, high-profile fashion editors and the biggest influencers from around the world. Last season, supermodel Naomi Campbell sat alongside Rosie Huntington-Whiteley and Jason Statham on the front row to watch chief creative officer Daniel Lee unveil his debut collection, and expectations are high for the designer’s second show, which takes place on September 18. Coveted by consumers across the globe, the luxury label is perhaps the most famous British fashion brand, but it hasn’t always been such a hot property. Ahead of London Fashion Week, which starts on September 15, we look back at the tumultuous history of Burberry… Adventurous origins The brand was founded in 1856 when 21-year-old former draper’s apprentice Thomas Burberry opened his first shop in Basingstoke, Hampshire. Focused on creating outerwear that shielded wearers from typical British weather, the founder invented gabardine – a water-resistant but breathable fabric – and patented it in 1888. “Prior to this, waterproof clothing was made of rubberised cotton which was cumbersome, not breathable and certainly not chic,” explains celebrity fashion stylist Miranda Holder. “In contrast, garbadine’s individual fibres were waterproofed before the weaving process, creating a lighter, more fluid and comfortable piece.” In early examples of celebrity endorsement, Norwegian explorer and zoologist Dr Fridtjof Nansen wore Burberry gabardine when he sailed to the Arctic Circle in 1893, while famed British explorer Sir Ernest Shackleton chose the outerwear for three expeditions in the early 1900s. The war years The now-iconic Burberry trench coat was invented during WWI with a range of features designed for military use – including the gun flap and D-rings to carry grenades – many of which remain today. “Each classic Burberry trench is composed of 90 individual, specially shaped components,” says Savile Row tailor Alexandra Wood, founder of Alexandra Wood Bespoke. “The key design elements include its double-breasted front, shoulder epaulettes, beige colour, belted waist, buckled cuffs, storm flap, and a checked lining that the brand has become synonymous with.” The distinctive beige Burberry ‘nova check’ was introduced in the 1920s and is still used as a lining now, with the ever-popular trench coats retailing from around £1,500. “The appeal of the Burberry trench has to be largely due to its adaptability,” says Holder. “The coat’s pale beige colour perfectly lends itself to a myriad of different outfit options, and the flash of luxury lining – nova check or not – makes it instantly recognisable as a luxury piece.” The royal seal of approval In 1955, Queen Elizabeth II granted Burberry a royal warrant as a weatherproofer, and by the Swinging Sixties business was booming, with the brand saying it made one in five coats exported from Britain. The nova check graduated from discreet lining to designer status symbol, with coats, scarves and umbrellas in the beige print proving popular with shoppers in the Seventies. In 1990, Burberry secured its second royal warrant, as an outfitter, from the now King. Noughties notoriety After decades of success, the Burberry shine was tarnished when a more mainstream audience embraced nova check in the late 1990s, snapping up entry-level items and causing the brand to discontinue sales of baseball caps. “The pattern soon filtered down to the high streets and eventually the football terraces – it remains one of the most copied counterfeit designs today,” says Holder. “As a result Burberry’s star fell hard, the brand losing any exclusivity it once had, being unable to control who wore the label.” Paparazzi photos of Eastenders actress Danniella Westbrook in head to toe nova check were seen as the final nail in the coffin, she adds: “Danniella was getting a lot of very negative publicity at the time, relegating the designer to the bins of bad taste.” The catwalk comeback Attempting to rehabilitate the brand as the new millennium dawned, Burberry opened its first store on upmarket Bond Street in 2000 and brought in 29-year-old Christopher Bailey as design director the following year. “Christopher Bailey made a significant impact during his tenure as creative director by modernising Burberry’s image, introducing digital innovations, and collaborating with artists and musicians,” says Wood. “It made Burberry fresher and more relevant and helped to make the brand have an edge, whilst remaining sympathetic to its crisp, British design aesthetic.” Scaling back production of nova check, Bailey brought glamour to the brand and staged blockbuster catwalk shows with live music from artists such as Tom Odell and James Bay. “He updated the classic trench, putting new twists on the heritage design and bringing in supermodel Kate Moss to give it a new lease of life,” Holder says. “Bailey successfully repositioned Burberry as an industry leader and innovator, and as a result, tickets to their catwalk shows were some of the most sought after on the London Fashion Week schedule.” A-list appeal Following the departure of Christopher Bailey with a memorable rainbow-themed catwalk show, Italian designer Riccardo Tisci was appointed chief creative officer at Burberry in 2018. “Riccardo Tisci injected some younger, more contemporary energy into the aesthetic, which was a roaring success,” Holder says. “Influenced by streetwear, his collections attracted younger fans who appreciated his edgier styles, despite critics pointing out a lack of continuity with the brand’s more traditional heritage.” Tisci enlisted model friends such as Kendall Jenner and Irina Shayk to walk the runway and dressed stars including Nicki Minaj and Kate Moss for the Met Gala. He also reintroduced nova check, much to the delight of celebrities and a new generation of Burberry fans. Bradford-born Daniel Lee took over from Tisci and made his debut at London Fashion Week in February 2023. The autumn/winter collection – which didn’t feature any beige trench coats – teamed sweeping coats and chunky knitwear with irreverent accessories like a woolly hat shaped like a duck and hot water bottles carried like clutch bags.
2023-09-11 15:57
Nicolas Cage's The Flash cameo wasn't what he filmed
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2023-11-02 16:20
Animal charity warns owners against Taylor Swift 'August' trend
As it is the month of August, it's no surprise that Taylor Swift's song August is a currently trending, as people on TikTok have been using the music in videos to channel their main character energy. But a new spin on the trend has seen people's pets take center stage as they are dramatically spun around as Swift sings in the song: "Back when we were still changin' for the better / Wanting was enough / For me, it was enough / To live for the hope of it all..." From dogs, cats, to a hamster, a goat, even a racoon and a hedgehog are some examples of the animals being spun around as part of the trend, with many looking bewildered at their owner's actions. Here are some viral examples that have racked up millions of views: @.naaaat HIS ARMS REACHING OUT I CANNOT @shaneequah_ safe to say indie loved it #fyp#lambs#petspinningchallange @lizzie3427 He tried to kill me after this #fyp #taylorswift #racoon #august #spintrend @sabz.i i don’t think i did this right @emmacchristie Sorry tilly While the owners may be having fun making these TikToks with their pets, animal charity Cats Protection warned that doing this action is not in the best interests for the welfare of pets. "At no point should an animal deliberately be put in a position to feel fear, anxiety, frustration or experience pain for the benefit of human entertainment," Central Behaviour Officer Daniel Warren-Cummings told Metro. "Cats in particular will experience extreme stress by being swung or spun around and it could even cause them physical harm." "In the videos highlighted, the cats are showing clear signs of distress. Even more disappointingly, these are being described as cute or funny in the comments section by people who appear to count themselves as cat lovers. Warren-Cummings added: "It’s clear from the language that the owners don’t understand that animals don’t feel and behave the same way humans do and this undercuts the distress that the cats are experiencing.’ He also noted that even if the actions in the video are brief, it is still "unethical and should not be encouraged.’ Sign up to our free Indy100 weekly newsletter Have your say in our news democracy. Click the upvote icon at the top of the page to help raise this article through the indy100 rankings.
2023-08-23 23:47
‘Love Island USA’ star Isiah ‘Zay’ Harayda dubbed ‘racist’ for questioning attraction towards Black islanders
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2023-08-23 10:57
Design Your Own Virtual Stained Glass Window on This Interactive Website
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2023-10-11 00:19
Grace Bumbry, 1st Black singer at Bayreuth, dies at 86
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2023-05-09 03:20
Internet defends Kanye West after bare butt and Bianca Censori's NSFW position on boat in Italy
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How old is Alabama Barker? Travis Barker's daughter twerks in video, Internet says she's 'too grown for her age'
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2023-08-17 09:51
iHeartMedia Launches Access Day, With 24 Hours of Once-in-a-Lifetime Experiences and Exclusive Deals Available Across the U.S.
NEW YORK--(BUSINESS WIRE)--May 24, 2023--
2023-05-25 00:23
Kate Winslet shot new film with three ‘massive hematomas’ on her spine: ‘I could barely stand up!’
After injuring herself during a fall on the first day of shooting the upcoming ‘Lee’, Kate Winslet said she battled through the rest of the filming schedule with three huge hematomas on her spine.
2023-09-12 19:18
Did Ben Chan almost lose a spot on 'Jeopardy!'? Nine-day champion reveals details as he explores a new sport
Ben Chan's nine-day winning streak came to an end when he misspelled a word by just one letter but he seems to have taken to baseball now
2023-06-08 12:24
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