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As well as introducing groundbreaking garments for women, Gabrielle ‘Coco’ Chanel embodied her brand in a way no other designer had done before, a new exhibition highlights. Gabrielle Chanel. Fashion Manifesto – at London’s V&A Museum – traces the life and work of the famed French designer, who was born in the Loire Valley in 1883 and taught to sew by nuns in the orphanage to which she was sent aged 11, when her mother died. “Before her, designers weren’t really known,” says Oriole Cullen, curator of modern textiles and fashion and the V&A. “Their names were known, but they weren’t visible figures within society.” Starting out as a seamstress and cabaret singer, before establishing herself as milliner, Chanel later turned her focus to couture fashion and began designing casual clothing for women, inspired by the menswear of the era. “The Chanel brand as it stands [today] is really based on these ideas that she ushered in 100 years ago,” Cullen says, which is where the exhibition title comes from. “The meaning of that is really about a template that Gabrielle Chanel set out at the very beginning of her design career and came back to, reimagined and reinvented throughout her long career of sixty years.” Bringing together nearly 200 outfits, the show features items from the opening of her first millinery boutique in Paris in 1910, to the showing of her final collection, two weeks after she died in 1971. Signature designs on display include little black dresses, tweed suits and quilted leather handbags – the most iconic of which is the 2.55 bag. “The 2.55 has never really gone out of fashion since she designed it in 1955,” Cullen says. “That is fascinating in terms of high fashion, that an object can stay the course for such a long time and still be relevant.” Part of the upper echelons of French society, Chanel initially relied on wealthy lovers, such as French ex-cavalry officer Etienne Balsan and English polo player Arthur Edward ‘Boy’ Capel to fund her boutiques. Later becoming a celebrity in her own right, she amassed a personal fortune, thanks to the success of her fashion, accessories and cosmetics lines. “The perfume Chanel No5 was introduced in 1921, but then introducing make-up in 1924 and skincare in 1927, she was really ahead of her time,” Cullen says. “It’s something she was doing because she was designing for herself.” Chanel is credited with helping to liberate women from the constricting corsets and long skirts that were de rigeur at the turn of the century, and for popularising softer textiles, such as jersey. “She cuts her garments with high armholes, so you can lift your arms over your head,” Cullen continues. “She thinks about fabrics that are practical, and skirt lengths you can move in.” The exhibition – which was originally staged at Paris’s Palais Galliera in 2020 – highlights the brand’s UK and Ireland connections via British Chanel Limited. “This was an umbrella company set up in 1932 to work with an array of British textile manufacturers,” Cullen explains. “From lace in Nottingham, cotton velvets from Manchester, wools from Huddersfield, and also voiles and silks from Carlisle. “One of the other companies she worked with was the Old Bleach Linen Company, which is based in Randalstown in Northern Ireland.” Split into 10 sections, the exhibition concludes with a recreation of the mirrored staircase from Chanel’s Paris atelier. “Gabrielle Chanel used to sit at the top of the stairs when she was having presentations,” Cullen explains. “The models would descend and this faceted mirror would reflect back the audience’s faces to her, so she could read the mood in the room.” Gabrielle Chanel. Fashion Manifesto opens at London’s V&A Museum on September 16. Tickets available at vam.ac.uk/chanel. Read More Charity boss speaks out over ‘traumatic’ encounter with royal aide Ukraine war’s heaviest fight rages in east - follow live 6 times Kate has worn London Fashion Week designers Pro-gamer Jukeyz ‘died for two minutes’ after cardiac arrest which left him ‘scared to sleep’ Young people not snowflakes or wasters, says curator of rebellious fashion exhibition

'We always wanted to throw a train off a cliff or blow it up. It was quite spectacular'

Tucker Carlson is back and proving precisely why he doesn’t belong on mainstream news. Fans will, of course, view that as a compliment, but it’s not intended as such. His new Twitter show, the first episode of which aired on Tuesday night (UK time), managed to pack a staggering amount of conspiracy and dangerous conjecture into 10 minutes and 27 seconds. Addressing his 7.9 million followers on the platform from the inside of some sort of log cabin, he launched into a jaw-dropping monologue, covering topics from the destruction of a massive dam in southern Ukraine to an alleged alien coverup by the US government. Sign up for our free Indy100 weekly newsletter The launch of ‘Tucker on Twitter’ comes just weeks after Fox News “parted ways” with its top-rated host. He has clearly kept hold of his loyal fanbase, with episode one of his new low-budget series racking up 44.9 million views in less than 10 hours. And yet, Carlson has made it clear that Twitter shouldn’t get too comfortable: proclaiming that he’ll ditch the platform in an instant if anyone dares call him out on his wild and problematic comments. “We’re told there are no gatekeepers here,” he said about Elon Musk’s social media stage. “If that turns out to be false, we’ll leave.” However, he added: “In the meantime, we are grateful to be here. We will be back with much more very soon.” If the first instalment is anything to go by, we should be concerned by this promise of “much more”. He began his tirade by accusing Ukraine of blowing up the Nova Kakhovka dam, and describing President Zelensky as looking like a “sweaty and rat-like a comedian-turned-oligarch”. He then claimed that the US government is essentially strong-arming its citizens into backing Ukraine against Russia, suggesting that the overriding message is: “Shut up and support Ukraine or else you are in trouble.” He went on to describe Americans as “the least informed people in the world” before accusing the media of “ignoring the stories that matter.” “What's happened to the hundreds of billions of US dollars we've sent to Ukraine? No clue,” he went on. “Who organised those BLM riots three years ago? No one's gotten to the bottom of that. “What exactly happened on 9/11? Well, it's still classified. How did Jeffrey Epstein make all that money? How did he die? How about JFK? And so, endlessly, on. “Not only are the media not interested in any of this, they are actively hostile to anybody who is in journalism. Curiosity is the gravest crime." He went on: “Yesterday, for example, a former Air Force officer who worked for years in military intelligence came forward as a whistleblower to reveal that the US government has physical evidence of crashed non-human made aircraft, as well as the bodies of the pilots who flew those aircraft. “The Pentagon has spent decades studying these otherworldly remains in order to build more technologically advanced weapons systems. OK? That's what the former Intel officer revealed, and it was clear he was telling the truth. “In other words, UFOs are actually real and apparently so is extraterrestrial life. Now, we know in a normal country this news would qualify as a bombshell, the story of the millennium, but in our country it doesn't.” He ended his diatribe by insisting that “most” people in the US live “manipulated by lies and silenced by taboos”. “It is unhealthy and it's dehumanising, and we're tired of it,” he stressed. So what is the antidote to all this state-sponsored “secrecy”? Why, to tune into ‘Tucker on Twitter’, of course. Plenty of people will, inevitably, and Musk himself has promoted the series’ release. Retweeting the episode, he wrote jovially: “Would be great to have shows from all parts of the political spectrum on this platform!” All we can say is, more sanity, please. Have your say in our news democracy. Click the upvote icon at the top of the page to help raise this article through the indy100 rankings.

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